Electro-Magnetism for AC/DC engines
Tl;DR
Post electro-magnetism 101 and electronics
Intro
Ive been doing additional electronics recaps before going all in with more electronics ideas
git clone /electronics-101/samples-motorsCircuits Recap
Electric Engines
Wondering about buying a car?
DC
AC
Modelling
The L-R
Conclusions
Why all of this?
| Property | DC (Brushed) | Induction (Squirrel Cage) | Synchronous | BLDC | Stepper |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Torque-Current | Linear (τ ∝ I) | Slip-dependent | Sine (τ ∝ sin δ) | Linear (τ ∝ I) | Detent only |
| Starting Torque | High (max I) | Medium (slip ↑) | Very low (needs sync) | High (if commutated) | None (steps) |
| Max Efficiency | 70-90% | 85-95% | 90-98% | 85-98% | <50% (intermittent) |
| Maintenance | Brushes (wear) | Minimal | Slip rings (if EC) | None | None |
| Speed Control | Easy (V variation) | Needs VFD | Needs exciter | Easy (PWM) | Open-loop steps |
| Speed Range | 0-max (smooth) | ~±5% around sync | Fixed at sync | 0-max (smooth) | Fixed (cogging) |
| Power Factor | N/A (DC) | Inductive (0.7-0.9) | Controllable | N/A (DC control) | N/A (DC control) |
| Size/Weight | Medium | Large (for same torque) | Large | Small | Tiny |
| Cost (small, <1 kW) | Low | Medium | High | Medium | Very low |
| Cost (large, >10 kW) | High | Low | Medium | High | N/A (not used) |
| Typical Uses | Old tools, low speed | Industrial baseline | Power plants, precision | EV, robotics, drones | CNC, 3D printers |
Well, you can use this knowledge for fpv/drons:
See also this one.
The drone brushless DC motors will have present Faraday law with their Back EMF, same principle of the EMF kickback of the watering project.
$$\nabla \times \mathbf{E} = -\frac{\partial \mathbf{B}}{\partial t}$$
Remember: A changing magnetic field creates an electric field!
Or to understand electric cars before buying one
Total Energy Spent: Approximately 211 kWh. Efficiency: $211\text{ kWh} / 16.3\text{ (units of 100km)} = \mathbf{12.9\text{ kWh/100km}}$.
Note: You actually drove more efficiently than your initial 15 kWh estimate!
| Metric | Your Trip (EV) | Diesel Equivalent (Est.) |
|---|---|---|
| Total Distance | 1,630 km | 1,630 km @ 6L/100km |
| Total “Fuel” Cost | ~810 NOK | ~2,050 NOK (at 6L/100km & 21 NOK/L) |
| Effort | 8 charging stops | 1 or 2 fuel stops |
| Efficiency | 12.9 kWh/100km | ~60 kWh/100km (energy equiv.) |
| Efficiency $ | ~5,36$/100km | ~11,96$/100km |
Unit Cost Comparison ($ USD per 1 kWh)
| Energy Source | Cost per kWh (USD) | Relative Price |
|---|---|---|
| Home Charging | $0.15 | 1.0x (Baseline) |
| Diesel Fuel | $0.23 | 1.5x more expensive |
| Public Charging (My electric Trip) | $0.46 | 3.0x more expensive |
| Application | Motor Type | Power | Voltage | Why | Duty |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Starter | DC Brushed | 1-2 kW | 12V | Max torque from zero | ~2 sec burst |
| Window | DC Brushed | 0.1 kW | 12V | Simple, cheap | ~5 sec per use |
| Steering | PMSM | 5-10 kW | 12-48V | Smooth, precise, continuous | Variable |
| Cooling Fan | BLDC/Induction | 1-2 kW | 12-48V | Long-running, efficient | ~30% duty |
| A/C Compressor | BLDC | 3-5 kW | 400V (EV) | Precise control, efficient | ~40% duty |
| EV Traction (old) | Induction | 100-300 kW | 400V | Proven, robust, simple control | Continuous variable |
| EV Traction (modern) | PMSM | 100-300+ kW | 400-900V | Higher efficiency, compact | Continuous variable |
| Mild Hybrid | BLDC/PMSM | 10-50 kW | 48V | Efficient, regenerates | ~30% duty |
| Plug-in Hybrid | PMSM | 50-100 kW | 400V | Full electric mode, regenerative | 40-60% duty |
FAQ
AC vs DC Power Transmission
As experimented and summarized here:
| Scenario | Winner | Margin | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| Same voltage, no transformers | DC | ~0.5-1% | No skin, eddy, corona, proximity losses. But negligible compared to… |
| Distance < 100 km | AC (regional grid) | 100× | Transformers. Cheap, proven. Converter cost not justified. |
| Distance 100-500 km | AC (765 kV step-up) | 50× | Step-up transformer reduces loss exponentially. Still beats DC converters. |
| Distance > 500 km | HVDC emerging | 10-20% | DC cable footprint advantage starts dominating. Converters now efficient enough. |
| Submarine cable | HVDC clear | 100× | AC cables leak capacitive current. DC avoids repeater amplifiers every 50 km. |
| Async grid tie (different frequencies) | HVDC only | ∞ | AC requires phase sync. DC is frequency-agnostic. |
| Pure DC renewable (solar arrays) | HVDC | 20% | Avoid AC inversion. DC stays DC all the way. |
Converting Electrical Energy
- Rectifier (AC $\rightarrow$ DC)
A Rectifier converts Alternating Current (AC) into Direct Current (DC).
- How it works: It uses diodes (which act like one-way valves) to block or redirect the “backwards” part of the AC wave so the electricity only flows in one direction.
- Common Example: Your phone charger. It takes the AC from your wall and rectifies it into the DC your battery needs.
- Inverter (DC $\rightarrow$ AC)
An Inverter converts Direct Current (DC) into Alternating Current (AC).
- How it works: It uses high-speed switches (transistors) to “chop up” the flat DC signal and flip its polarity back and forth to mimic the wave shape of AC.
- Common Example: Solar panels. They produce DC, but your home appliances need AC, so a “Solar Inverter” sits in the middle.
Home pv setups tend to have one of these!
- Transformer (AC $\rightarrow$ AC)
You are exactly right—a Transformer stays within the same “lane” (AC to AC).
- How it works: It uses magnetic induction to change the voltage and current levels, but it cannot change the nature of the current. It cannot work with DC because it requires a changing magnetic field (which only AC provides).
- Common Example: Those big grey cans on utility poles. They take high-voltage AC from the power lines and “step it down” to the 110V/230V AC used in your house.
| Device | Input | Output | Common Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rectifier | AC | DC | Powering electronics from a wall outlet. |
| Inverter | DC | AC | Using a car battery to run a laptop or TV. |
| Transformer | AC | AC | Stepping voltage up/down for the grid. |
Pro Tip: If you want to go from DC to DC (like changing the voltage of a battery), you use something called a DC-DC Converter (often a “Buck” or “Boost” converter).