Electro-Magnetism for AC/DC engines

Electro-Magnetism for AC/DC engines

May 4, 2026

Tl;DR

Post electro-magnetism 101 and electronics

Intro

Ive been doing additional electronics recaps before going all in with more electronics ideas

git clone /electronics-101/samples-motors

Circuits Recap

Electric Engines

Wondering about buying a car?

DC

AC

Modelling Electrical Engines

Is the classical R-L model enough?

enough for what, right?

These are not powered by slider cranks and powerful combustions

But arent they simple, beautiful, elegant and massively efficient?

AC Engines

DC Engines

These are the kind of motors propelling your DJi Tello Dron.

Yea, the same for which I was recently making a nicer desktop app with computer vision plugged in.

#git clone /dron
cd ./dron
uv sync
uv run main.py

Yep, private video :)

The L-R


Conclusions

Why all of this?

PropertyDC (Brushed)Induction (Squirrel Cage)SynchronousBLDCStepper
Torque-CurrentLinear (τ ∝ I)Slip-dependentSine (τ ∝ sin δ)Linear (τ ∝ I)Detent only
Starting TorqueHigh (max I)Medium (slip ↑)Very low (needs sync)High (if commutated)None (steps)
Max Efficiency70-90%85-95%90-98%85-98%<50% (intermittent)
MaintenanceBrushes (wear)MinimalSlip rings (if EC)NoneNone
Speed ControlEasy (V variation)Needs VFDNeeds exciterEasy (PWM)Open-loop steps
Speed Range0-max (smooth)~±5% around syncFixed at sync0-max (smooth)Fixed (cogging)
Power FactorN/A (DC)Inductive (0.7-0.9)ControllableN/A (DC control)N/A (DC control)
Size/WeightMediumLarge (for same torque)LargeSmallTiny
Cost (small, <1 kW)LowMediumHighMediumVery low
Cost (large, >10 kW)HighLowMediumHighN/A (not used)
Typical UsesOld tools, low speedIndustrial baselinePower plants, precisionEV, robotics, dronesCNC, 3D printers

Well, you can use this knowledge for fpv/drons:

See also this one.

The drone brushless DC motors will have present Faraday law with their Back EMF, same principle of the EMF kickback of the watering project.

$$\nabla \times \mathbf{E} = -\frac{\partial \mathbf{B}}{\partial t}$$

Remember: A changing magnetic field creates an electric field!

ℹ️
“kV” on drone motors is NOT kilovolts. It’s motor constant: volts of back-EMF per 1000 RPM. More about dron motors.

Or to understand electric cars before buying one

Total Energy Spent: Approximately 211 kWh. Efficiency: $211\text{ kWh} / 16.3\text{ (units of 100km)} = \mathbf{12.9\text{ kWh/100km}}$.

Note: You actually drove more efficiently than your initial 15 kWh estimate!

MetricYour Trip (EV)Diesel Equivalent (Est.)
Total Distance1,630 km1,630 km @ 6L/100km
Total “Fuel” Cost~810 NOK~2,050 NOK (at 6L/100km & 21 NOK/L)
Effort8 charging stops1 or 2 fuel stops
Efficiency12.9 kWh/100km~60 kWh/100km (energy equiv.)
Efficiency $~5,36$/100km~11,96$/100km

Unit Cost Comparison ($ USD per 1 kWh)

Energy SourceCost per kWh (USD)Relative Price
Home Charging$0.151.0x (Baseline)
Diesel Fuel$0.231.5x more expensive
Public Charging (My electric Trip)$0.463.0x more expensive
ℹ️
More about electric cars motors, including srm
ApplicationMotor TypePowerVoltageWhyDuty
StarterDC Brushed1-2 kW12VMax torque from zero~2 sec burst
WindowDC Brushed0.1 kW12VSimple, cheap~5 sec per use
SteeringPMSM5-10 kW12-48VSmooth, precise, continuousVariable
Cooling FanBLDC/Induction1-2 kW12-48VLong-running, efficient~30% duty
A/C CompressorBLDC3-5 kW400V (EV)Precise control, efficient~40% duty
EV Traction (old)Induction100-300 kW400VProven, robust, simple controlContinuous variable
EV Traction (modern)PMSM100-300+ kW400-900VHigher efficiency, compactContinuous variable
Mild HybridBLDC/PMSM10-50 kW48VEfficient, regenerates~30% duty
Plug-in HybridPMSM50-100 kW400VFull electric mode, regenerative40-60% duty

FAQ

AC vs DC Power Transmission

As experimented and summarized here:

ScenarioWinnerMarginWhy
Same voltage, no transformersDC~0.5-1%No skin, eddy, corona, proximity losses. But negligible compared to…
Distance < 100 kmAC (regional grid)100×Transformers. Cheap, proven. Converter cost not justified.
Distance 100-500 kmAC (765 kV step-up)50×Step-up transformer reduces loss exponentially. Still beats DC converters.
Distance > 500 kmHVDC emerging10-20%DC cable footprint advantage starts dominating. Converters now efficient enough.
Submarine cableHVDC clear100×AC cables leak capacitive current. DC avoids repeater amplifiers every 50 km.
Async grid tie (different frequencies)HVDC onlyAC requires phase sync. DC is frequency-agnostic.
Pure DC renewable (solar arrays)HVDC20%Avoid AC inversion. DC stays DC all the way.
ℹ️

Converting Electrical Energy

  1. Rectifier (AC $\rightarrow$ DC)

A Rectifier converts Alternating Current (AC) into Direct Current (DC).

  • How it works: It uses diodes (which act like one-way valves) to block or redirect the “backwards” part of the AC wave so the electricity only flows in one direction.
  • Common Example: Your phone charger. It takes the AC from your wall and rectifies it into the DC your battery needs.
  1. Inverter (DC $\rightarrow$ AC)

An Inverter converts Direct Current (DC) into Alternating Current (AC).

  • How it works: It uses high-speed switches (transistors) to “chop up” the flat DC signal and flip its polarity back and forth to mimic the wave shape of AC.
  • Common Example: Solar panels. They produce DC, but your home appliances need AC, so a “Solar Inverter” sits in the middle.

Home pv setups tend to have one of these!

  1. Transformer (AC $\rightarrow$ AC)

You are exactly right—a Transformer stays within the same “lane” (AC to AC).

  • How it works: It uses magnetic induction to change the voltage and current levels, but it cannot change the nature of the current. It cannot work with DC because it requires a changing magnetic field (which only AC provides).
  • Common Example: Those big grey cans on utility poles. They take high-voltage AC from the power lines and “step it down” to the 110V/230V AC used in your house.
DeviceInputOutputCommon Use
RectifierACDCPowering electronics from a wall outlet.
InverterDCACUsing a car battery to run a laptop or TV.
TransformerACACStepping voltage up/down for the grid.

Pro Tip: If you want to go from DC to DC (like changing the voltage of a battery), you use something called a DC-DC Converter (often a “Buck” or “Boost” converter).

What is KV in motors

You are completely right to catch that! I snuck it into the component chart a few messages back when we built the initial blueprint for the indoor Whoop.

I wrote down: “0802SE 19500KV (Brushless)” for the motors.

Since KV is a highly specific and slightly confusing number in the drone world, let’s look at exactly what it means and why that specific number matters for your build:

What does “KV” actually mean?

In FPV drones, KV does not stand for kilovolts, and it has nothing to do with television.

It stands for the Velocity Constant of the motor.

ℹ️
The Rule: KV is the theoretical number of Revolutions Per Minute (RPM) that a motor will spin for every 1 Volt of electricity you feed it, with no propeller attached.

Let’s look at the math for the 19500KV motors on a fully charged 1S drone battery ($4.2\text{V}$):

$$19,500 \text{ KV} \times 4.2 \text{ V} = 81,900 \text{ RPM}$$

Those tiny brushless motors are spinning the propellers at over 81,000 times per minute when you punch the throttle!


Why such a high KV for a small indoor drone?

  • Small Propellers = Less Leverage: Indoor Whoop propellers are tiny (only 31mm wide). Because the blades are so small, they don’t grab a lot of air. To create enough thrust to lift the drone, they have to spin at astronomical speeds. High KV motors give you that raw speed.

  • Low Voltage (1S): Since you are only using a single-cell battery ($3.7\text{V}$ to $4.2\text{V}$), the voltage is quite low. To get high RPMs out of low voltage, the motor needs a high KV rating.

  • The Contrast: If you were building a massive 5-inch outdoor camera drone that runs on a heavy 6S battery ($25.2\text{V}$), you would use low KV motors (like 1700KV to 1900KV) because the larger propellers grab massive amounts of air and would burn out the motor if spun too fast.

When you go to buy your motors, sticking around 19500KV to 22000KV in the 0802 size is the absolute sweet spot for a snappy, controllable indoor flyer!

KV x Dron size

Choosing the right motor KV isn’t just about the drone’s size—it is a balancing act between Propeller Size and Battery Voltage (Cell Count / “S”).

The fundamental rule of thumb is: Big propellers and higher voltage need lower KV (more torque). Small propellers and lower voltage need higher KV (more raw RPM).

If you pair a big propeller with a high KV motor, the motor will try to spin way too fast, overheat, draw massive current, and likely burn out your ESC or the motor itself.

The drone’s “size” is typically measured by its propeller diameter (in inches).

Drone Type / Prop SizeMotor Size (Stator)4S Battery Platform6S Battery PlatformBest Use Case
Tiny Whoop (1.6" - 2")0802 to 1103N/A (Uses 1S/2S)

18,000–25,000 KV
N/AMicro indoor flying / Backyard racing
Micro / Toothpick (3")1404 to 15053500 – 4000 KV2500 – 3000 KVLightweight freestyle, sub-250g builds
Cinewhoop (3" protected)2004 to 2203.52500 – 3500 KV1800 – 2200 KVHeavy, stable cinematic filming around people
Standard FPV (5")2207 or 23062400 – 2700 KV1750 – 1950 KVThe standard choice for racing and freestyle
Long Range / Cinematic (7")2806.5 to 28081500 – 1900 KV1100 – 1350 KVHeavy GoPro haulers, mountain surfing, ArduPilot
Heavy Lift / Commercial (10"+)3110 to 4114+N/A400 – 900 KV (Uses 6S to 12S)Large mapping planes, multi-kg cameras, endurance

💡 Understanding the Stator Numbers

When you see a motor size like 2207, the numbers stand for the internal dimensions in millimeters:

  • 22 = Stator Width (Wider = more torque and efficiency at low RPM)
  • 07 = Stator Height (Taller = more raw power and bite at high RPM)

DC vs BLDC vs AC Engines

Using a ClampMeter